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Home > Archive > Jul 5, 2007

Red Cliffs and Bathing Suits
By Sharon May
Managing Editor
For Washington County residents wanting somewhere close to shed the heat in cool waters, for others looking for shifting dunes and sandstone slots without all the ATV activity, or for others seeking a glimpse of the Southwest’s red rock formations, the Babylon section of the Red Cliffs Desert Reservation might be just the place. This sandy, rocky playground offers a quieter, more isolated location for hiking, swimming and exploring.
Although the portion of the reserve known as Babylon, a former pioneer mining area, shows evidence of frequent use – a few abandoned fire rings and, unfortunately, a half-dozen bottles and cans on my recent visit – it remains a quiet, more intimate interface with the Virgin River corridor. An occasional pickup truck or ATV is all I’ve encountered in several trips to the Babylon area.
So while tourists and summer throngs make a stream of foot traffic along the Riverside Walk in Zion National Park, Babylon offers its own Moab-like microcosm of red rock beauty bordering the Virgin River Trail. This trail follows and crosses the Virgin River from its entrance into the Reserve near the Hurricane Cinder Knolls on the east side to the river’s exit from the Reserve near Quail Creek Reservoir on the west. 
Across from Babylon, on the south side of the river, a spur climbs the lava-topped ridge, affording a panoramic view of the entire Hurricane Valley. The Virgin River Trail generally follows the river, crossing it twice east of Babylon, as a shortcut across a large hairpin in the river’s course.
After crossing the river the trail now hugs the south bank on its way to the East Cinder Knoll Trailhead. Another spur of the trail takes off south and climbs the ridge to overlook Sky Mountain Golf Course in Hurricane.
But a good place to stop and play on a hot summer day is at Babylon, at the end of the Babylon Road. Park near the structures – the rubble of a brick pioneer-era building and a more modern concrete garage-looking complex. A “no trespassing” sign is evidence that the site of the structures is still privately owned.
A short walk from the structures takes you to a wonderful beach. Here, you could set up your umbrella for shade, park your cooler and explore the Virgin River. Across the river is a cluster of tall cottonwoods – another source of shade – and the spur trail that winds up the lava ridge.
The river here offers various depths for wading and swimming, from shin-deep to over the head. A turn in the river banks up against a twisted sandstone and lava wall slipping into the water, forming a lovely deep swimming pool of refreshingly cool – not cold – water. Sun glints off the surface and sends golden shafts beneath. Tiny to nearly foot-long fish flash in the greenish depths. A large rock three or four feet below the surface would make an excellent mid-stream foot perch.
Although the river isn’t moving swiftly, it’s still probably not a good idea for younger kids to swim here; it’s too deep for them. But upstream is a wide, shallow “rapid,” and downstream, the river widens and levels to about two or three feet – perfect for school-age children (I would still recommend they wear a flotation device just in case they slip or float into deeper water. And observe your kids at all times).
After cooling off with a swim, those wanting to explore, can follow the river in either direction, either wading in the stream or traipsing the unmarked and often-obscured trail on the bank. You can’t really get lost: just follow the river. A quick dip at any point will bring relief from the heat.
The “reefs” and ridges surrounding the river’s path are impressive, and the nearby orange to pink and rust-red formations hold interesting arches, short slots and shallow caves. But the riparian coolness of the river corridor is always close by – an enviable combination in 100-plus degree heat.
Despite its draw, one reason why this part of the Reserve may not be as visited as similar red rock vistas such as Snow Park is that the roads through this part are a bit dicey – as in a few worrisome sandy and rocky sections.
Soon after the turn onto the Babylon road, the sand deepens to about a foot or more of loose sand, and I wouldn’t attempt the drive with a low-slung sedan. Decent ground clearance and 4-WD are comforting for sluicing through this sand. ATVs are permitted in the Reserve on roads designated for motor vehicles.
With the sandy section behind you, your tires will then be tested by rocky stretches of road, sharp lava jutting from the dirt. A steep, narrow part with one hairy turn before you reach Babylon might curl the toes and lurch the tummies of visitors with a fear of steep drop-offs inches from their tires. The drive isn’t really frightening, though; it’s part of the adventure, and part of what keeps the Reserve … well, a reserve.
For local colorful adventuring with a refreshing payoff, Babylon is a real treasure.

Before you go, it would be a good idea to purchase a map of the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve. One place to purchase a map is at the BLM Interagency Office, 345 E. Riverside Drive in St. George (688-3246). For more information on the Reserve, go to www.redcliffsdesertreserve.com.
Please do not disturb any wildlife you encounter, such as the famous desert tortoise. Take plenty of water. And please pick up and pack out your trash!

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